Saturday, February 27, 2010
i mounted it into the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe to face the ends. very quick and easy compared to using the milling head.
as you can see it yields great results.
up next- the layout. scribing lines and what not using my recently acquired starrett height gauge.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
using 'the wiggler' to find approximate center. this is the quick and dirty way, i was not overly concerned with this hole being perfectly centered. for all the other holes though i located them using another much more precise method.
boring, getting very close to the final cut.
i am surprised how accurately the boring head cuts. i measured for my final cut, dialed it in on the boring head and it came out wonderful.
hand tapping on the mill. no power, just using the spindle as a guide. once i got it started to a sufficient depth i used a tap wrench for the rest of the way.
done! now i need to work on a second piece, for the opposite end of the chainstay fixture.
Monday, February 22, 2010
started out with a hunk of 6061 cut on the 4x6 horizontal bandsaw.
squared it up on the mill. pretty rough finish... should have used a larger diameter end mill running at a higher spindle speed.
bored out a 1-1/8" hole using a boring head on the mill. next i would like to try to bore a hole this size chucked up in the 4-jaw on the lathe.
i drilled the pair of holes before i cut it in 2. i cut it using a hack saw, i dont have a large enough diameter slitting saw right now. after i cut it with the hacksaw i cleaned up the faces on the mill. take note of the much nicer finish bc of the larger diam endmill and higher RPM.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Monday, February 15, 2010
Sunday, February 14, 2010
they use an m4 and m5 bolt. the m4 holds the clamp to the fork leg, and the m5 bolts the rack to the clamp.
doing it this way has a couple nice features. as you tighten a single bolt p-clamp it wants to move, pulling the rack out of place as the p-clamp tabs pull together. the m4 bolt holds the clamp firmly in place so when you tighten the rack bolt it doesnt pull in as it would with single-bolt p-clamp. also you can remove the rack and leave the p-clamp on the bike, already in the proper position to quickly re-install the rack.
this set is made out of 4130, its what i had on hand. its gonna rust if left uncoated. im thinking about re-doing it all out of stainless when i get more metal stock.
its hard to tell in this picture, but there are 7-layers to this clamp.
cloth bar tape
cloth bar tape
a very solid connection
and of course i spent a couple minutes on the lathe to machine the aluminum spacer!
Saturday, February 13, 2010
remember this post from way-back-when?
after a good long wait, it finally ended up on the bike.
fits perfectly, looks great.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
ahh yes, the trail is starting to get fast, in some sections. other sections have melted leaving exposed grass to slide over.
previously i was under the impression that there is no safe way to go downhill on these things, but i think im starting to get the hang of it.. bend your knees, ankles, keep your hands below you belly button, focus on what each ski is doing and try to make small corrections in ski direction. still not easy, but at least im not duffing it on every downhill now.
i was joined by justin for the 2.16 mi loop, lighting the way was my princeton tec eos which was more than sufficient on medium, justin had some fancier lookin one with a little external battery pack, very cool.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
XC skiing is really fun. it allowed me to explore sections of the property that are nearly unwalkable any other time of year bc it is so brushy.
this is my neighbors house in the distance. there are 4 houses on the property, all stone, all built under british rule!
coming around the backside of rack n roll HQ.
PS one of the stone farm houses on the property is available for rent, it is a super cool spot. along with the renting the house you get access to 400+ acres to noodle around on, like i did all yesterday!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
which dropouts to use?!
i cannot tell you the last time i rode a geared mountain bike.
my plans for this bike is to build it up initially with a 2x7 drivetrain for a fun change.
the vertical dropouts will be easier for me to build with, but the thought of not having the ability to run it as a SS scares me.
if i choose to use them, the surly dropout will complicate the process considerably.
head tube prepped, fluxed, ready to tack. using my piece of super fantastic framebuilding re-bar.
tacked, top and bottom.
BB shell, DT and ST prepped. dummy-ing it up to make sure everything still fits.
checking head tube alignment. i had to move it around some. even with just a couple tacks it takes a lot to get it to move a little.
down tube tacked into place, roughly aligned, top tube and seat tube sleeve prepped. next, disassemble, flux, reassemble, tack, check alignment....
after tacking the TT into place and brazing the ST sleeve, another alignment check, then i could start building fillets. youch, they are still hot!
here are the fillets with the flux soaked off
after some finishing work, not trying to go too crazy with finishing the fillets.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
ready to do some filing.
down tube to head tube
other end of the down tube.
nice fit on the bottom bracket shell and seat tube.
starting the top tube copes.
roughing out some material with the hack saw. new blades are the best, i had the old blade on for a very long time.
done, both sides.
more wood work. this time needed a big-V to hold the head tube in the vise.
hand facing the head tube, using my fancy new v-block
head tube is ready
drilled the down tube for water bottle bosses.
up next some prep and then tacking the front triangle. oh boy!